Friday, August 12, 2005

Session 5173

Forgive me if I have been so hard of other sufers, you have every right to tell me about it and you should. My forums are open to everyone!

Another successful morning, caught waves after waves of good faces though two others who would say they come flaked out.

I don't know if it is my nature or the zodiac that I was born in, but I often feel like the one who is rounding up the surfers and make them surf at the time and place I want them to. It was really an interesting thing because a few years ago when the show "The Boarding House" was on the Werner TV, there was this girl surfer who was rounding up all other surfing girls and taking them to the competitions making them to surf and compete. As it turns out she is a Scorpion like I am, and to my surprise she and I have the exact same birth month and the date (of course not the year). So I am somewhat surprised by this. I am really sympathetic about this surfer because once you put on the wet suit and got your board under your arm, and tie the leash; there is only one thing that matters.

Just Surf!

At any rate, I have just found this sweet local spot that continues to break when Surfpulse and the surfers in general are just complaining bitterly about the smallness of the waves. To some extent I am really happy about it because it really helps people away from even thinking about coming to surf, but on the other hands, it is too bad because most of the surfing these days are so media driven that if a web site or a some major surf site says to you to go they go and when they say no-go and they don't. To that I would say, go out anyways! What do you got to loose, right? You can still have good exercise paddling around beautiful nice ocean for practically free. Instead, you'd pay $600 plus a year in a membership for the privilege of using a stationery machine and watch Fox channel that the next bigger guy chose on your behalf for the entire 60 minutes of your session, coming out even more aggravated before you started your exercise learning that the world is less peaceful then just an hour ago, or thinking why you have less than all the other people you just watched on the TV.

So back to the surf media telling you to go, you go and what happens. You did go didn't you? It is way over your abilities, it is breaking one and a half over head and getting out is a hell, and if you made it out, you would pearl and if you are lucky you'd be hit by the board, and if you are unlucky you'd get 5 stitches from the performance fin that you just put on because, again, some surf media told you that there are the best types of fins the pros use.

So you did paddle out, and you did not catch any waves, you barely paddled back in, but then you tell your friends, you went out on the biggest day of the year, and you are proud of what you have "accomplished."

The point I am making is this.

Perhaps, it is about time that you would and should find your own ways of surfing, your own size of the waves and don't even worry about what other people say about the condition or the makes and types of the boards you have.

The Surfers Having the Most Fun Rules!

1 comment:

steve said...

Hey Manabu,

You should call me the next time you head out to your secret spot.

steve