As a surfing enthusiast, I must say that I really came to appreciate so much variation in how the ocean and the sky changes all year. Given there are so many varieties and permutations that arise out of them there simply cannot be a day that I could say "This was exactly the same kind of a day that I had?" There are similar days, for sure but, no, I have not encountered the exact sky, wind and the waves that combine into a surfing experience.
This morning I had an easy out with not much wind, but waves were just not as good of a quality (for me) as yesterday. They are coming down at a faster a bit more powerful rate than yesterday, making catching the waves a bit more difficult. There were several waves where I was simply plummeted, or barely taken off into the white water after the wave behind closed out on me.
That brings to another issue, though, better surfers don't catch those types of waves, they seem to know which are ridable ones and which are not, and they'd even position themselves at the right places.
So there is yet another surfing skill to master. It never ends.
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