Just got back from this morning's session, and the last time I was surfed there was during the local classic competition. The waves were not breaking as big as the last time I was there but it was a nice glassy morning with occasional shoulder level faster sets; the kind of the sets familiar to all of us who surf here a lot, and there were a few barrels that were forming here and there! Of course I did not want to compete in these sections, so we found our little sections, paddled up and down as the break point shifted as the tide swung up rather quickly to high in just a course of an hour!
The "fastness" of the waves this morning was just perfect because it was not as fast as the last time, and so it was nice to really practice more take offs. Yesterday was more about turning but today it was more about taking off. It is really fun to take advantage of different conditions and situations and learn to develop skills in each specific area of surfing.
A while ago I talked about the consistency in doing some motion, and today I have started to see more consistency in taking off into the waves that were previously "not makable" in my skill set. Even when I am failing, I am still up on the board and riding the soup or t least riding something. That's also party the poor wave selection, which is now another area that I need to start to work on.
During this session I was sharing to a local buddy that "I would quit surfing and move onto something else if I learned this sport." And his return to me was that "Then you would never be able to move onto another. Nobody can learn everything!"
It is probably true and for that I am really curious about far I can go with this, I may never reach the end, but that makes me even more curious what's out there!