Finally I got a chance to hook up with Dog Haus, and also this morning's session was joined by Monkey Screw. A nice summer drizzly foggy morning (equals no wind) here in northern Half Moon Bay with sweet NW rolling in at 8-9 seconds on good tide.
First though Dog Haus is right, I have been a bit too harsh on other surfers on my latest BLOGs, I think I have lot a bit of the good spirit of the stoke and it really takes a friend like him to remind me that this is supposed to be for the fun and fitness, we are doing this for our enjoyment in life. You are right about that. I am not making write any excuse of it, so let us just move on to today's topic, which involves surfing, of course.
It is really a pleasure to surf with these experienced people as I can just follow them around from peak to peak and this morning was a kind of a morning where we were all so tired from surfing because the Pacific flooded us with a gift of sets after sets of gentle overhead waves!
We were catching waves like there is no tomorrow. There almost has not been a time when any one of us was not standing on a board with Dog House and his long rides high on the waves and Monkey Screw's smooth groovy rides, and of course I was continuing to work hard at take offs and turns. It was like a stage show.
Today I made one significant move that I have to share. I finally did a beginner version of a roundhouse cutback! This means that I have done a complete "figure 8" cutback ending up in the same direction I came from. Now that I tasted it, I can start to practice for it to perfect. I was super excited about that one. Part of it was a luck that the wave was in a completely good shape to do it, as I executed the turns 1 and 2, I saw the wave behind starting to build up more and 3 and 4 were really easy.
Also do you all remember when I wrote about my local buddies would look after me and people? Today, there was this guy in a spring suit seemingly trapped in a rip paddled way way out but Dog Haus in his fast paddling power went over and asked him if he was OK. We were relieved that he did finally make it back to the shore, but for the whole time we were watching him. Monkey Screw also told a family that their little kid not play by the shore break, and sure they should not have. Here is why.
When I was ready to get out, I was caught in one of the shore breaks, and right at the moment I was pulling out walking against the backwash, I got a strong leg cramp and I could not walk. I was caught in the shorebreaks after another getting pulled out and thrown from the top pounded and held under for several minutes. There is nothing really dangerous about it, I am used to this, but should this have been a small child not knowing how to swim, it would not have been pretty.
After I got out, Mooch left a message and said that and he saw our cars on the way to pick up a person at the airport and he saw our cars again on the way back from the airport, then he came back out to surf, so it was a busy morning for the beach! Yes, we were there for at least 3 hours and not just 3 hours but it was action packed one with one wave after another.
Then we all went to the brewery and partied for couple of hours, the time extended when Mooch came and joined us for lunch too.
Congrats on the roundhouse cuttie. I haven;t gotten there yet, but hopefully this season.
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