The DP this mooring was so excellent and I wished I had more time than I had. Tomorrow, I have some news to tell you all, but this morning was really a very special morning and day to get started on the final conclusion of the things I have been working on? more on this tomorrow because this story won't be a complete one unless you read the Part II.
At any rate, the ocean surface was like a mirror without any ripples and then from time to time up to chest level waves broke out. There was one guy in the line up and he was doing really well finding nice pockets to start. This really tells me that a higher level surfer has really a way of finding good position and only goes for the waves that are really good. Through surfing a lot with better people and also sat in surfing competition recently I think that I am much more keenly aware of the wave selection aspect of surfing! Again, surfing is a shallow sport when it comes to the depth of the water we play in but it is a very deep sport in skill development and as such it is a never ending journey like a life in of itself.
I was watching this guy and he knows where to catch, but also I was amazed by the speed he gets out of the same size waves that I take off on. He utilized the first bottom turn really hard and got back up on the wave then use rather radical cutbacks to get back in the wave again gaining more speed each time he turns. Unlike motorcycle racing, surfing is really interesting that you use turn to gain the speed. That's where a surfer uses her body and weight transfer to gain more speed, so without the mastery of good take off and turns, there really is no good surfing to me.
I was really inspired and I tried to imitate as much as possible of what he did. It is always a good education to be in the water with some really good people sharing the same level of the wave as I do.
To be continued.
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