Wednesday, August 24, 2005

Session 5183

Good NW swell continues this morning. I surfed alone this morning at "you know where" and it was decent. A bit closed out as other Stokemasters reported this morning, but there were a lot of waves to catch.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Man-O, mister 8000 waves a day! Hey I have been reading that book you gave me and I really like it. I can see how you've really taken that book to heart. It is giving me a lot of insight into my own life and how surfing has really shaped it and how deeply my life is affected by surfing in a very positive way. I can also see how by choosing surfing as a lifestyle, we really have chosen the good life, compared to so many others that missed many of life's opportunities to do what is safe and more acceptable in society. I can also see where I can apply more "surf" mentality to other parts of my life and improve in those areas. Thanks for sharing the book.