Tuesday, August 02, 2005

Session 5165

Have you all seen "Riding Giants" movie? One of the profound statements that were made at the end of the movie by the editor of the Surfer Magazine is to the following effect.

"If someone sees that you practice religion every day, there is no question, but if someone sees you that you surf every day, then?"

I do surf as many days as possible and as much as possible so long as the water looks safe enough for me to venture out. I even think that I rub people in a wrong way because I write about it each time I go out. But the point I am trying to make out of all of this is that everyone should have a passion or two and then go for it. At this juncture in my life it is definitely surfing and yes, it is the situation that "once the bug has bitten me." But on the other hands, I've seen people religiously jog, do yoga, swimming or whatever. Surfing should not be considered so special. Why should it be? Especially you don't have to sign up for any membership at all, and the equipment would last for a while, and you can get in and out of the water in basically the same amount of time you would for your swimming at a local gym. Of course I do have a bit of unfair advantage that I live right by the ocean and I just go before or after work, but even then there are people who drive across the Bay Bridge to take some Aikido or Kendo classes, so it seems to be just a matter of priority.

And that brings to the next issue. Why all of you do what you do? Because it is fun and also help you build the strength or endurance or whatever you want out of it.

So, if surfing is it for you then don't make an excuse out it. Don't waste any time or labor with your guilt. Just go and do it. It is your passion and your stoke, and what else is more important to your own life?

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