Session 5172: Thursday, August 11, 2005
I get cell calls from friends, forecasts and what, and I cannot believe how people can get so negative about our current conditions! There just are places you can still catch a lot of waves.
There still are some things I don't really understand. For example, everyone goes to Linda Mar right? Everyone knows it is crowded, but then why in the heck all these people bunch together in one spot and try to take off into waves all at the same time? What kind of surfing is that? Some sort of competitions? And then those very people are whom I know who'd say "I don?t want to compete because it is not soul surfing" are also they are the very people who will paddle up to that mess and come back and complain to me that "Oh, it was so crowded!" So I ask when you say those things, are you really practicing what you are preaching? Yeah, yeah, I understand, these are prime peaks. I can see that from where I was sitting. But I look at that and there were only 2-3 surfers out of the 20 that are bunched up who were taking all the waves. They are taking off from way-way outside not giving you an inch of take off space.
Now that I have vented my frustration of the century, I am onto today's surfing. As usual, I was surfing at the place and sections that many would not consider going. But the sets were shoulder high and good steepness that I caught just so many waves and there was even a single person next to me. Not even a threat of someone trying to paddle up. So look hard and you can find a place to go. With the sun out and the paddle out so clean and nice, I have to give today a Stoke 8.
The take off technique is continuing to improve today, and rides are definitely getting higher quality and longer length.