I was going to do a quick morning session, and that's exactly how it ended up. With the note that the swell period was going in the neighborhood of 14 - 17 seconds, I strapped the Takayama DT4, a 9'0 long board, plus "just in case" a 6'6 Fish.
I drove up north from my house, saw the Jetty and that looked like already packed and with smaller waves. Could have been fun with a short board though. Arrived at Montara and decided to do a session there. The waves did not look that big from the road.
Contrary to looks, or my luck combined, when I tried to get out, the gate keeper at Montara was hard at work refusing me to get myself out. First door to open was the treacherous shorebreaks that broke numerous people's board and even surfers themselves. If I do not time this entry well, it can be very costly. There was a lull of the wave for a moment, I throw the board and leap frog myself and paddle like getting out of hell. But just at the moment, the waver in front of me started to inflate fast. "Oh, Shit!" I needed to make a quick decision to either quit paddling and ditch the board, or keep going. I decided to keep going, which was lucky and good for this time. The wave did not break and I went over the hump. Then, now I am fighting with the second gate keeper; the endless white waters. I was paddling and paddling but not making much progress, finally I thought I have reached the outside, but when I look at the shore, I was only 50 years out.
This was a bad choice of spot to get out, so I paddled back in, and as I hit the shore, I stand up and a very strong back wash almost literally knocked my booties off taking back to the shore break zone. Montara is angry and if I let it, it will just keep me in the beach break and pounce myself and board for as long as it wants. I kneeled down and using all the power I have I pulled out of the water, as soon as I felt no resistance from the pull of the backwash, I quickly run to the higher ground, as who knows, even a bigger shorebreak will take me right back.
I was walking up and down the beach for a better entry point, and tried two more attempts with similar results. So I said to myself, "I am going to check out other locations."
When I got back to the car, though, a thought of a more relaxing day started to cross my mind, and so I headed back straight home.
Should I have seen a few more people out there, especially some of my better local friends out there surfing the waves, I could have tried more and stayed.
I just got up from a long nap and it was good, and worthwhile, and I just finished writing this.
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