I was up and ready for a Dawn Patrol (DP) but I was looking into some issues at work and one thing leading another it was already 4 PM. But I did have a good progress on work, and so I said I am going to check into the waves.
Checked out the Jetty then Montara, which did not look too bad, but I decided to try out the Gray Whale Cove (GWC) beach. From the top of the cliff it looked promising, and there was nobody there! The outside was sunny, balmy and it really was a nice fall afternoon surfing day, so I decided to go down with my JC 7'6 board.
This is known as the Nudy, or a nudist beach, and though I rarely see people without any cloths on, today there were several people out respecting the original spirit of the place.
I paddled out, but the current was so strong that when I looked back, I was approaching close to the rock on the S. end. So most of the sessions, I paddled out and do a ride then walk all the way back to the N end where there are some rocks.
As the time went by, the waves gotten worse and worse, and more and more white water started to rush in getting out very difficult. Also this place has horrendous shore breaks too. About half hour into the session two surfers showed up. One was looking at the waves for good 10 minutes and seemed to have left. Another long boarder finally decides to go in, and he had a real struggle.
Some of the rides I got were fun though as in this kind of a messy condition, I can challenge with turning skills to dodge all sorts of bumps that pop up. And sometimes, if a bump sticks out in front of me, I hit it and do a quick cut back action. When that succeeds there is a lot of satisfaction!
Well, it was so much work out getting out that after just over an hour of a session I was fully exhausted, and got back.
On the way out, the long boarder stopped by and shouted "You are so brave, it was getting scarely out there!" I understand that very well. When I was starting out getting out was such a scarely event for me. Come to think of it, I have had a bit more confidence in this kind of situation.