Sunday, October 03, 2004

Session 4.192: First Time at OB. Stoke 9

Well, my contemplation for to surf or not to surf the OB is now over. I finally did it.
But why was I hesitating it? I have heard so many things about how it is difficult to get out... a lot of current. It is not a relaxing surfing etc. Of course still those days and condition exist and when that happens, I should really not venture out but get back to LM or the Jetty for a more mellower situation.

To get to this point there were a couple of things happened:
  1. Darin at the HMB Board Shop suggested that I should start going there at Sloat.
  2. Wardo hinted me and to us that we should.
  3. Jim, one of the Stokemasters member said he wanted to go there this morning.
  4. I have survived (note I did not say I surfed) some bigger days at Montara (9 ft, 13-14 seconds that's big enough for me) .
  5. I tried all other breaks like El Porto to Rincon, so other than the psychological barrier there really is no other reasons to hesitate.
Well, as it turned out I really had an excellent time today. I was a bit afraid of the current so I took out the JC Equalizer 7'5, and that worked out great.

Unlike the waves at Linda Mar or the places in Half Moon Bay, this morning, the shoulder level sets were holding out rather nicely and ride were some of the longer ones I have taken in a while. The board really worked out great letting me do several cut backs for me to stay on the wave, and these types of manuvers are still new to me so when they work out they really give me a lot of satisfaction.

In terms of Ups and Downs technique that I am still trying to get really good at, today I was able to do aim much higher up than before and cut back down. As I get better at this, the up angle is really getting steeper. Today, I would say it was about 20 desgrees up and 45 degress down may be.

But even today the current was strong that if I am not watching out, I could easily be taken from Sloat to Vicenti in no time. In fact Jim told me that he was carried out there. I was aware of this so when I finish the ride (all lefts), I walked back the board to the S end of the Sloat parking. With paddle out, a long left ride and the current, I can easily end up half way to Taraval!


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