With all wave measurements dwindling down in our area, I decided to head down to Sloat at Ocean Beach this morning. As usual, the first stop was at the Cafe Luca in Montara. As I approached the area, there was only one car parked in front. But just as I pulled in two cars ahead of me pull in. Then they both get out. "Oh, man, I am behind 4 people!", still I decided to go inside, and there were yet another couple waiting for a very complex order. So I was essentially behind 6 made to order coffee drinks. There was only one guy behind the counter. Given it would take at least 4 minutes per drink to make that would mean that I have to wait for 24 minutes for my turn! Gosh, I cannot wait for that long, I got surfing to do. So I headed to the next door convenience store for a coffee and a donut. That worked out fine, and I only paid half of what I normally pay.
Back in the car. Quickly looking at Montara, and it was happening. I almost ditched the OB plan and could have gone there, but I kept going... Linda Mar was not happening... Glad I did not tell people I would be there!
When I arrived at the Sloat, there were plenty of spaces to park and then there were some nice Manabu level waves... Chest to shoulder high break. Looked a bit on a soft side, so I picked the soft board, and paddled out. Contrary to the groomy outside, the water was welcoming.
Here comes, a nice shoulder high, already starting to break from the top, and I was positioned just right for it. The moment of go/no go decision comes as the tail starts to lift up. Yep! I got this one. I have executed a diagonal take off and I was ready to set a line. But as soon as I got in the line, the wave started to close out, I got lifted up fast. Whoa! I jumped off the board, and that was the end of the first ride.
I waited for a few minutes for the set to pass by, then paddled back again to the same spot.
Here comes another chance. Again, I slowly paddle for the shore as the wave start to approach with the familiar roar. Now I know what to expect. Similar to the last one, but now, I am crouching down really low as the board starts to set the line. As the board jacked up, I am pushing the tail of the board and also leaning hard against the wave. The board picked up a tremendous speed and now jetting towards the direction of Half Moon Bay. Now I am looking at the wave as I pass by a Muni Bus in the corner of my eyes. Wave is jacking up a bit, so I start to point the board more towards the bus, the speed picks up again, and now I am passing by the rest room... Still some power left ahead if I get through this section. I trim the line back down, then push the tail and pivot the board back up the line. I was so happy, I am now in the second wind of the wave. Finally I do the last cut back and point the board straight to the shore. It slowly rides on the white water to the shore.
It start to rain after a while. It is an interesting experience to see rain drops hitting the ocean. It is being like when I was a grom that I wanted to get out into the rain with a rain coat on and splash in the water. Now I am doing it, and really doing it.
Stoke 8 with a bit of greed!
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