Tuesday, October 12, 2004

Session 4.200: Yeah! Out 200 times this year. On to 250.

This year's sub-goal for me is to get out 250 times or more. So I should be able to do it. Even though I have been out many times, my progress is still very very slow. I am envious of other Stokemasters members making good progress in just under a year! But I think as a result of taking up this sport I am healthier than ever... Physically, mentally and spiritualy!

Quite a contrast to yesterday, this morning was more fun to surf. When I opened the garage door this morning, it was balmy! There are not very many days like these.

This morning as the usual "before work" dawn patrol, so I went straight to Linda Mar beach, though Montara looked like it would have been fun, and also I was thinking about going to Sloat should this has not been as good.

I have been using 7'5 and it has been working quite well. Today I focused a bit on the take-off part of surfing, and it was working great for a while, but as usual, there is ever present S->N current and I was getting pushed further up north as the time went by. The offshore wind flow also started more noticeably, and then there was this 2 x size wall starting to come my way and closed down. I felt that I was lucky to be able to paddle outside, but this being a low tide' and I have seen many "Surfrider Logo" waves that could have been a bit more mess if I was thrown out.

Scared a bit, I started to paddle toward the S end but the current was rather strong so it was a hard paddling feeling like not moving at all. Finally a smaller sets started to happen and I was able to ride the way back.

I rested at the beach a bit, walked towards the boat dock and caught some nice smaller rights. Probably should have just stayed down that way all morning.

Stoke 7: Wish the waves were bit less closed out.

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