What a busy day today with one emergency "fix it now" incident one after another... total of about four, when I came back from a morning meeting in Santa Clara, which, of course preempted this morning's down patrol! In fact, these emergencies were threatening to eat into the afternoon surfing too!
But, I managed to get out by 4:45 (for those wondering, I was doing the server migration until 9 p.m. last night!)
Having seen the beaches relatively flat and low tide all over, I have decided to stop by at Montara. There was only one another surfer, and it was David, a friend from my local surfrider chapter! The stoke level goes up a notch when I spot a familiar face out. Essentially we had the entire Montara to ourselves for this evening.
I have never been to Montara at this low tide and when the sand was out so far. I could walk 300 years out and it was still knee level. In fact, it was a bit of a challenge to take off, as I turn the board around, the back of the board stuck into the sand. We had several good chest high waves, but it was not that easy to take off. A bit more depth would have been better.
But one thing I was thinking is that I really like a lot just to be in the water and paddling around. I really like the invigorating feel of cold water, and no matter how I hard I paddle, I never get really hot.
It was a short session as the sun was going down really fast. When I got out the water the sun was just ready to drop below the horizon. I just stood the sun to go down as I appreciated the end of another nice day I had. It is still amazing that how quickly it goes down, and all because the earth is rotating.
No comments:
Post a Comment