Friday, October 22, 2004

Session 4.207: More Autumn DP Fun. Stoke 8

This morning, I have decided to be back on the usual dawn routine at Linda Mar. With an updated shower, it is a very convenient spot for me to surf. I was also stoked that Steve was going to be there too based on last night's Stokemasters message post.

As a part of the routine, I stop by at Cafe Luca in Montara. This is very convenient because the place is right by the highway on the north bound side requiring no turning around. Just pull in, grab a coffee and pastry, then continue on either to Montara beach or Linda Mar depending on the condition.

When I arrived at the Linda Mar beach, the light has started to come out. Since I am determined to go, I started to untie the boards. In a space of just 5 minutes, the sun pops up over the mountain and I saw there were some nice gentle looking breaks going followed by some. Another stoky session! So I was thinking. And Steve pulls up. It is always nice to see familiar people to come to surf!

The waves looked softer and not jacking up as much, and also breaking further out. It is a nice long-board condition. So I took out my JC Equalizer 7'5 board and put the fish back inside the car.

I headed out to the water, watch the waves and do some warm ups. I looked around to see where the waves were rippling, and found the spot. I paddled out and here came a good overhead size break. I took a ride and the first one went just perfect. Not as dramatic as yesterday at the Jetty, but I was making some big cutback turns to stay on the wave, and it was so nice and smooth ride!

I had 3-4 more rides like those, and then the break pattern started to change. The breaks became more frequent and a bit messier, but adjusting the position to the inside, I continue to have fun catching many waves.

Then I started to mess up on take-offs. Thinking that this is a sign of fatigue coming, I paddled in.

On the way to the office, I was very happy, and thinking about how my body got stronger and my mind got more tuned to the water better, there are so much more options opens up in surfing!

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