Tuesday, October 05, 2004

Session 4.193: M Spot 3 ft 11 sec.

Many people think that why I never really tell where I surf. There are a couple of reasons for this. One is that I do not endorse any specific spot. Just because I thought it was good, or for that matter, bad, it really should not affect your selection of a spot. You've got to know the spot, the swells, the wind, the tide and go for when it is best for you. Secondly, it should not really matter where I surf. I am not writing this as a surf spot guide. There are just many of the guides. The more important part that I would like you to read is about how my experience with surfing is changing over time. What I am writing here is my true honest-to-god feeling and knowledge about surfing that I do and as the story unfolds. I think I can articulate this better now than before.

So, in terms of today what did I feel about it?

First, the waves were kind of junky. Junky to mean that I did not find good waves to ride. And "good" is a relative term. What's good for you may be bad for me. For example, if the wave is 10 x overhead. That might be good for mavericks people but not for me.

Did I catch any waves? Yes, I have taken off on a few, but I did not ride them all the way through.

Why didn't I? It was either too fast for me or closing out for where I chosen to ride. Though this always happens to me, looking from top of the cliff the waves looked ridable before and after the session.

Did I have fun? Most definitely.

I had fun because I got a tremendous exercise especially at one point getting out became a bit harder and so I really got a sense of more accomplishment by actually getting to the outside. I was also by myself, and that often I like to do. There in the middle of the ocean, I can really detach myself from various attachment to the "real" world. It is a good place to contemplate a lot of things, or just simply learn not to think about anything but surfing. That's actually difficult as many thoughts will occur and you have to tell your brain to shut up, and just surf.

So, I am now back typing this, and I can't hardly wait for tomorrow morning's session! Addicted? No, I don't think so. I think I have chosen this to be a part of my daily life.

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