What a stoky session I had, and it was at the Jetty. I have written about this WavLOG a few times that some of the best surfing I have done anywhere is at the Jetty. Today I had another one of them. In fact, this one was the best yet on my short boarding.
First, the sun was out. Then I get in the water and it was comfortably warm at 58 degrees F, and the waves were nice rolling type spread out, breaking not all at the same time, up to shoulder high. Finally there was hardly anybody out there. Even getting out and ducking through waves were so much fun!
The first part of the sessions, I had some difficulties getting up on the board, but I worked on trying to get up faster, and that started to work. I said to myself, why I should keep being intimidated by these faster breaks, so I made very conscious efforts to take off no matter what. I tried to take off closer and closer to bigger break lines. I tried not to look back but focus on looking at both of my sides and also the front. As I did so, I started feel a bit more ease at taking off and the success followed.
Then there was even luckier break. I finally wound up in a spot where I could position myself right where the hook is about to form. With a bit of uneven but real hard paddling, and kicking of the legs, I swiftly get into the hook and the wave starts to curl up, as the tail of my board jacks up, I quickly get up on the board. ?Great, I am now up.? Even as I had a sensation of the speed, going down the slope and being lifted up all at the same time!
Once I got enough speed, I was able to trim back up the wave; not quite a big bottom turn. Now I am going down the line with wave closing out with a roaring noise just behind my butt trying to get me. ?No way, wave, I am in control!? I continue to trim the board so maintain the speed. Then just as if to ruin the fun, the wave starts to throw a close out right in front of me? A standard pattern, now I am used to this! On this ride, I still got enough speed and power, so with a slam the tail of the board, and with all the power I got I tilt and arc my body to the left and start looking for a new line?. And in just a flash, my knees are feeling a tremendous pressure from the board hitting against the white close out like my board reflecting a powerful Laser beam. The board points away from the wave, picks up the speed again, and I am quickly U-turning to where I came from, and continuing the smaller left ride all the way to the shore.
This did not just happen once but 2 more times after that.
Today was the best ride I had so far on my 6?6.
Stoke 9.5? wish I had more time!
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