I was going to go out yesterday, but a buddy called me in the morning telling me that waves were trashy, so I was going to go in the PM. Somehow, in the PM I did not feel like going, so I worked on updating my web site and started to work on some of the new infrastructure changes.
But, by the time I was ready to sleep, I really felt that I should do a DP. I packed everything and ready to go and went to sleep. It was a bit hard to get up at 5:30 AM, but I was back in the DP mode again. The first hard thing is getting out of the bed, the second thing is when I open the garage door and feel the cold air still dark outside. Luckily this morning it was not cold and that made me happier.
Driving by the Jetty... flat... Montara... kind of flat... But when I drove by the Gray Whale Cove I saw the swell lines cleanly coming with the clean surface. That's a good sign that we are going to have a glassy DP.
Arriving at the Linda Mar, the N end looked closed out a bit, so I decided to take the 6'6 and decided to go there, then I saw the S end breaking a bit more gently, so I flip-flopped and went to the S end.
The first half of the session, I did not catch much as the waves really did not break, but as the time went, some bigger breaking sets start to happen. Also Greg saw me and paddled up to me. Then shortly after that some good breaks started to come, and were breaking close to the shore, so going with the Fish was a good call. I started to catch several waves.
Some good things started to happen today.
Today I felt that I have a more options to take off. During paddling in for the wave, I was able to take off to the left, right or straight and these smaller waves gave me a lot of chance to practice. When the waves are close to closing out, having these options are helpful, and with more confidence built around this technique, I can start to utilize it for even large or faster situations.