Sunday, October 17, 2004

Session 4.204: Manresa Stoke 8!

I love beach breaks. Especially compared to yesterday (Saturday) when I was totally intimidated by bunch of experts at Pleasure Point in small take-off zones. Going to a beach means it is spread out, and I can travel up and down the shore to pick spots that I like.

Also this morning, the waves were more of a "mushy" situation, which, I must admit that I prefer to get into. I am still not that used to waves that just dump from the top of my head and then throw barrels. I know someday, I might only prefer those, but I have not gotten there. Even in these conditions, there are some steep ones but not so steep that I can really enjoy the thrill of dropping down while I am barely hanging onto the tail of the board finding the first turning point.

My wife, Wendy, was also looking at my performance from the comfort of a car (as it was drizzling outside), and commented I got some "jyozu" (good in Japanese) rides. So I was really happy. She was commenting me last time that I looked kind of stiff on the board, but this time, I looked more flexible. I made a lot of nice cutback turns and when these work out. At one of the rides, I did a "spray flying" cutback turn to avoid a surfer standing inside (at a good distance.) We were looking at some good surfers yesterday at Moss Landing together, and we were commenting which were good surfers so I know when she tells me I have improved, she is serious.

I was also happy to run into a group of familiar Pacifica surfers.

Manresa beach breaks are becoming one of my fun and favorite breaks now!

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