Thursday, September 02, 2004

Session 4.168: More @ Kamaole Beach, Stoke 10

After a coral cut on my knee, I have been a bit cautious about spots. This Kamaole spot has basically rock bottom so it is a bit safer than on spots further north. Also today, the waves were a bit up and giving some nice long rolling mid-chest high sets, though, the sets were still a few and far in between -- about one every 5 minutes. But, like in Santa Cruz, once they fire up there will be about 3-4 set waves. Imagine the Cowells, except that there is nobody and it is about 10 times wider to spread out. This morning the max people I shared the waves was 4 people, with two others who were not catching much, so essentially there is this airline guy who surfs when he stays over and me just owning the whole break.

Another amazing fun is the length of the ride. On some rides, I can easily ride 20 seconds or more on one wave and it is also possible to connect two wave sections to go even longer. So I had many many relaxing, fun, long waves to ride on the McTavish 9'1 Original ( board, with its 23 inch wide body, it is super easy to catch these relaxing waves!

With a nice sunny day with warm water, I should give it a kind of Stoke 10 day!

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