Monday, September 20, 2004

Session 4.182: Surfing at the limit

Every now and then, I can be in a situation where I am hitting the upper threshold of something. This means that given a session success and failures are intermixed at both extremes. Today was one of those days.

This does not necessarily mean that waves were bigger, but waves were challenging to me to the extent that it was faster closing ones. While in Maui with these gentle rolling waves, I thought I became an expert, then, a big awakening... After coming back, I felt like I was hitting some slump because I was catching so many waves in Maui. They were slower and more gentle even though the size can get fairly big -- up to overhead size.

Today, though while some waves were breaking fairly fast for my pace, there were "slow enough" breaks that I could catch. And that is where I mean the limit. Sometimes, I just don't catch them and I get held under for a bit and sometimes when I caught, they were just really great with so much speed going and so much pressure on the knee.

The progress I am making slowly now is that I am starting to be able to deal with more speed and the resulting power and be able to catch and hold on. But success is sporadic. It is a progress that I do succeed sometimes, unlike before I never did.

I am hoping that this part of the surfing will improve further, as it is probably a key for more dynamic riding style.

No comments: