Monday, September 27, 2004

Session 4.188: "Stormy" Surfing Today But...

Went to M----- this afternoon. Waves were mostly closing out and also just agitated all over the places. One interesting ride I had was a body surfing. When I took off I got separated from the board but I kept surfing on my body in a perfect body surfing position. The head sticking out of the wave and body gliding! Otherwise it was just a ton of white water mess! Good fun ducking through those though.

When I got out though there was this surfer that walked up to me and asked me where I was from and I said I am originally from Japan. Then he started to speak to me in Japanese. He seemed to be a seasoned surfer going to OB and surfs up to 20 ft waves etc. Very interesting to see more surfers speaking Japanese!

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