Today was first day that I can recall having a lot of fun surfing since I got back from the vacation. The waves were just steep enough for me to take off on but not too mellow, so again, it was kind of being a blink of hitting my top limit and so I had mixed very nice success and some failures too. But it was challenging.
A couple of take-offs were really thrilling, especially I was trying to out run the cloing waves really fast and at the same time trying to make a turn so I don't crash immediately into the beach. It is really an amazing feeling when the waves are fairly steep and I am just hanging onto the tail of the board to stay on.
Couple of progresses here. In the past (and still today sometimes) the board slips out. But I am increasingly more successful in shifting the weight forward and makeing a turn all at the same time. Gradually these types of take offs are becoming more consistent than before. As with these success, I am also starting to tap into speed and with it I had a nearly compolete success on a standard pull out one time.
This kind of condition is fairly rare though as there is either too much or too little. But I am hoping that I will be able to take on bigger faster waves as the skills improve.