Wednesday, September 15, 2004

He'e Nalu 178: More work with big waves...

On the way back from work, I drove up to LM and boy, the parking was full of cars, and that means that I had to surf with many other surfers. If I was super good, it would not be an issue, but based on yesterday's experience, it would have meant that I might collide with someone if I took off and someone else happens to do that at the same time. So I drove on and chose another spot.

I had to do a "good deed" first. When I arrived at the parking lot, this man with Prius lost his key and everything else including his phone and wallet was in his car, and no hand-held phone works from this devilish location. I checked to see if my 3 watts phone worked and it did, so I did offer to help him out. I must say though he was put on hold with AAA for a good 5-10 minutes then we decided to call Toyota road-assistance and that took another 5-10 minutes to get the business done. But I hope by now he has been rescued. It goes to say, it is always good to have some backup means of getting back, ya?

From the cliff top it looked decent, but man, once you are in there, it just was a lot of work to get out. It looked like the god poured the All temperature Cheer and I got a nice wash for my wetsuit, but it was not a relaxing sort of a situation. There were some better watermen braved all the way to the outside, but I could not risk that when I was here all by myself without any buddies that would look after me. So I chose to to stay inside.

Positive part of this experience is this. Yes, I am taking off and getting the best I can out of head-high dumpers, I am riding them, I am bottom turning on them, but the rides are short lived. Progress, yes, and I was really happy about that one. Again, if this was a year ago, I would say to F it and not have gone in, but now I am paddling out, ducking under waves and catching them. I think that's progress!

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