Friday, September 17, 2004

He'e Nalu: 4.180. DPLM again. Surfed nearly half the year!

Today was the 180th day of my surf session this year. That's almost half of the year.
The set waves were not that ridable to me, and especially after two weeks of catching lots of wavess in Maui, I felt like starting over again, even with a 9'0.

It is really interesting to learn and experience how the ocean comes up with all these different kinds of wave conditions, and sometimes it is so difficult to catch and ride them. Other times it gives me so much nice waves.

I have learned enough about this that when there is a day like this, I can say, yeah, there will always be another day that will be better.

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