Last night, we finally met Ward. As far as our group of surfers goes, he is THE most experienced ones that hang around with us. He has been surfing for many many many years. I am so fortunate to have him, and it was so stimulating to spend an evening with him. People like them has so much depth and dimension to surfing or be it on any subject that we can talk all night and still won't be tired.
We talked a lot about surfing and we talked about Jazz and music (we both play music, though he is much longer at it than me too.)
To summarize it all though, surfing is still about the stoke. More we surf, we kind of get jaded a bit and we start to talk about waves not big enough or weather not nice enough... But remember the first few times you were out and you were so stoked that waves or without waves, it didn't really matter, you just went out and had fun, and in the end that's all what it count, not necessarily in just surfing but with anything we do.
So this is why I continue to Blog so 2 years from now, and I just don't feel like going out because the OB isn't breaking 2X, and when I feel like to yell at some surfer getting in the way, or when I catch myself paddling out looking awfully cranky, then it will be the time to get back with the blogs of 2002...
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Admittedly this past week was kind of a blah period both in terms of the waves, kind of rides I have been wanting to get, and the ones I actually got.
This morning I went to Montara. The place is still scary in terms of the power it brings sometimes. The tide was super low in the morning, so whether that was the case or not, the waves were not all that great but I did have one nice ride with several cut-backs let me keep the ride. I was on the 9.0 Takayama again if I am on the board, it is certainly leading my way... "Come on, Manabu, ride me. I am going to turn you this way, and catch that little hook... you can do it!" "Sorry, I cannot respond well enough to what the board is requesting me to do. The board jets out under me but the board was helping discover a type of the line that did not occur to me before.
Anyhow, getting back to the stoke though, this morning I just set the board next to me on the beach and looked at the surrounding and doing so was so fulfilling especially reflecting the issue of the stokes we talk about last night. The beauty of the ocean and the background of the mountain. I also take water samples at this location so I know the water is safe and clean... a nice little reward.
It was very good to re-awake on the stokes department and that's all about living in the present moment!
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