So, I took Clio, Amanda, and Arthur to this secret spot this morning. There was only 1.5 other surfers there. This young guy was ripping and shredding with a short board, and about the half the time, I saw his father on his short board and he was ripping and shredding too... a surf family. After the session we spoke with the father, Tom, and he said that his son surfs every day, sometimes twice a day. No wonder...
Anyhow, asides from very strong side currents we had good amount of swells to play with and from time to time, we were getting 1.5 overhead dumpers that were throwing mini right tubes. Personally I had a Stoke 7 blast of time but looked like Arthur was suffering for too much partying last night. Amanda came all the way to the beach only to find out that she had to call back into her job. This was really too bad. Clio said that she fell a lot, but I did see her take some rides.
The Takayama DT4 worked out great, and also I also switched the board with Clio with her Vernor swallow tail 7'2 and that was a fun light board and caught lots of waves though not very long ones.
I have not surfed with Clio for over a month so it was really great to have her back to share the waves!
When I am all by myself that's when I get a bit more intense in all technical details. But, today I tried to "free surf" a bit more by just letting all the theories and stuff just go, so I was more relaxed about the whole situations. Plus I was 100% guaranteed my waves as there was nobody else in my section even all three of us are very widely spread apart. So it was a lot of fun waves.
So, this spot will remain nameless on my notes. Clio, Amanda and Arthur, you got that too? Your cars will be waxed if you write about it.
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