I planned to join Jen and Paul at the Jetty on Saturday morning. I also found Ken in the line up. I played by the breakwater with the Fish the first half then brought out the 9'0 in the second half. It was just a night and day contrast to see how Paul surfed his long boards, and I was just looking at him with an awe. He knows where to pick the waves and also takes off on just about anything, and then to top that off, he will do hanging as well as 360s and other stuff.
Jen was doing well too on her big 10'0 board that she says I need to try so I will try that sometime.
So, again, it is not the condition, it is the surfer that rips or sucks. I am hopeful that some day under the similar "poor" conditions, I will be able to do what he did. I've now seen the proof that it is possible. Should this have been a contest, he would have been the top person because nobody out there even came close!
No comments:
Post a Comment