Thursday, May 06, 2004

Session 4078: Montara this morning.

Montara is kind of a place where it looks great from the highway and as you
get closer and closer to the water it looks worse and worse. But I gave it a
shot. Main problem this morning was that there is so much reflection waves
that they are colliding with incoming ones. So I catch it, and get going and
then come to an immediate stop. There were some spots that where the water
was colliding so hard that they were creating very tall plumes of upward
splashes. It is hard to get out with strong inward and also sideshore
currents etc. It is kind of a place that I really would feel not very
comfortable surfing all alone, especially when I arrived, one by one,
surfers started to leave (I am hoping that I am making some sort of a
reputation that eventually the word will get out to Santa Cruz and the same
thing will happen when I get there.)

This past week or so I feel I have been stuck again. I know I keep at it it
will be better again. The waves, my attitude etc., are all working against!

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