Tuesday, May 25, 2004

Session 4091: More AM Stokes

Back to the same spot as yesterday. The quality of the waves improved a bit today probably because of less wind through the night. This morning, we even had a bit of offshore condition.
I have been talking about how I came to love beach breaks more than the point breaks in SC, but today was one of the days that was a lot of fun to catch, read the waves and steer the board, and especially it is a very happy occasion when I say "the next wave, I am going to leave." and a good one comes and I catch a great ride. You all know what happens next, right? "Heck!" I was turning paddling back out again!
I really love (and also hate) the fact that these beach breaks make both lefts and rights. On the same spot, one time it is left and another time it is right.
I was also experimenting today on steeper take-offs with a heavy back weighting and on a few of the waves, I was so much tail weighted that I was quite a bit wobbly and stalling at the same time, and could not get into the forward weight fast enough to slide down the slope. Good thing is that I took off, so I think I am on to something.... surfing is fun but very very difficult!
So overall I will give today the stoke rating of another 6.5, well almost 7.

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