Yesterday after lunch, I went out and combed all the spots from Montara to Kelley. I was so disappointed to find nothing. This was like 4 days in a row that I did not surf. The only time I did not surf for that long was when I went back home in Japan! But it is even more amazing that the Pacific can become like Lake Erie at times.
So, this morning I was a bit skeptical, but I loaded the board and head out to the office with a stop at the Jetty or Montara. Surprise surprise, the Jetty was happening this morning. While the sets were few and far between they were breaking up to shoulder to head with good volume. I found Rick there and we talked a bit. The water was really cold though.
It was kind of fast breaking (like most of the time there), so I was in Pearl City all over. But it was a lot of fun to finally get back in the water. Hopefully for those going out this PM, the wind is manageable (looks like it is).
I could see that swells were already building up gradually so I am sure we get a lot more to come.
In terms of my latest quest to get a foamy board, I am still going to do it, possibly this weekend in Santa Cruz. I am telling everyone, it is a *must have* in your quivers if you can afford to. For example, today, I would have taken off in front of this surfer standing in the water if I had a foamy. I was 85% confident that I can set the rail and not hit her, but just in case I wipe out, I have one less worry, and probably I have caught that wave, that would have been one more wave under my belt! (Though it was uncrowned today, so I would have taken out the DT4 even if I had the foamy).