Friday, May 28, 2004

Session 4094: Stoke 5 at JTY & Reflections

Oh, well. It was fun but wish there were more waves there and less wind this afternoon. Also you know it is very shallow when you try to turn around to catch a wave and then the tail of the board sticks in the bottom sand, and it is a short board I am taking about! Then it got a bit too windy that when I was waiting for the waves the board was catching the wind. I saw a kite surfer down the coast so I know it must have been windy!
So that's my surf report for today. Now, onto the reflections column.
Every so often, I check the web site access log and see where the people are coming from, and quite surprisingly, there are many visitors from places like Ohio or Pennsylvania where I know there is not any known good surfing. Also, while I do not hear from that many people on this wave log, I know that people are reading them and also I know from letters that I get every once in a while that there are many people who just enjoy reading about surfing or life in California or whatever. Also in the supplementary material of the documentary "Surfing for Life," the producers were surprised to get so much interest in surfing from people all over the country.
So as a part of my daily column, I think I am going to start to write more about surfer's life and the culture... I think that there are many people who are intrigued by this and would like to live through the life by reading them. For many of us, we are very fortunate that we got the ocean within a driving distance and we can also basically surf year around, so I think that we should all pitch in and tell the story to the world, that this is how to feel like a surfer, and we get to tell the story from the perspectives of "run on the mill" everyday California surfers (unlike, say someone braves the Mavericks or professional surfers).
So if you wish that you were a California surfer, then I will try to do my best for you to live the moment through my stories. If you are reading this, be sure to ask me anything you want to know that you have a great influence in how the story will fold.

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