Well, last night I was taking the shower and a news come out. A "rare" shark sighting at Will Rodgers park, complete with an LAPD helicopter shot of the shark swimming in the ocean. In So Cal, everyone takes the beach seriously... machine beach grooming, surf conditions posted on chalk boards, hourly life guard patrol to an LAPD helicopter patrol. Even forgot to mention from yesterday that at the Seal Beach, when a couple of boggie boarder got into the inside of heavily surfed zone, a life guard pick up truck came right up to the beach, shouted to them from a loud speaker to get out of the area for their own safety.
So back to the sharks, that essentially ruined the plan for Malibu. Oh and by the way, when we were at the Seal Beach as you already know and there was a chalk board that indicates the "Grunion" counts. This is not something I have ever hard of up in NorCal. I thought that this is some sort of Groms Re-union at Seal Beach. But the news happened to mention that the shark is looking for Grunions. So I understood that this is some sort of fish. http://www.cabrilloaq.org/grunion.html
So to protect my ability to surf again in Nor Cal, I got out to El Porto for one more day of Industrial Strength Surfing. My wife got some video so when I get around to it I will post some clips from it, but man, these beach breaks are difficult! You think our stuff is fast, theirs is just as fast. But that's just me complaining. We just need to learn to just shut our mouths and surf because there are better people doing just fine with all possible championship shortboard actions to stay on the waves!
Still my take-off sucks big time so as a result I cannot get on to these waves quick enough. This is right now the major drawback for me that I really need to work on because other better dudes are taking off on the same waves that I think are really fast breaking. Fear, yes... skills yes, the age (I won't admit to that one yet.)
Well, at least I have horned my skills on beach breaks so I was able to have some fun on my short board. I am getting better bit by bit, so by December of this year, like I said I will, I think I can demonstrate a big round cut-back.
Tomorrow, I will be back in the sprit of NorCal surfing, bright and early.
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