Wednesday, May 26, 2004

Session 4092: DP Continues with Good Waves!

I have, and certainly other people, have been noticing that this NW wind swells (8-10 seconds) have been rather swell this week, we all had a lot of fun riding them. Compared to 17-18 second swells they tend to be both big and closing out, the NW wind swells of 5-6 ft working into Linda Mar can be just gentle and nice to ride at my present level of surfing.
This morning, I brought my old trusty 7'6 and also my 6'6 fish, and I have taken a look the beach and chose the fish to ride in the "inside" breaks. This is something that I have been preparing for... to ride the small summer waves on the fish. The set were breaking at about high-chest level, with a bit of SW wind making it offshore like condition.
It took me a bit of hunting around to find a good spot by then there was only 30 more minutes left for the session, but once I found the spot, it was a lot of fun to get jacked up by these little peaks, do quick flick ups then do lots of little turns to stay on the face. Rides are short but I am starting to jet across these small waves that are breaking really really close to the shore, like some people doing that last summer with their fish boards exactly on these spots. The paddle back for more, only  a dozen strokes and you are already back to the line up! If surfing at the SC peaks with a long board is like flying a 747, these session are like flying a Piper in an acrobatics mode.
So I think I am all set for these summer wind swell challenges. I am stoked and looking forward to more of these small conditions that other people hesitate to surf.

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