Saturday 8:30 a.m. A northern Santa Cruz spot.
The sun was high up in the blue sky, the south swells are in full swing. SW
swells were going at 16.5 seconds with up to 6 ft. Glassy no wind condition.
Nearly perfect day to start.
I met up with Clio and surfed at a reefy N. SC spot. Nice 1.5 to 2 x
overhead lefts were coming in every 4-5 minutes, and everyone was very
stoked. The only problem at this spot was that this was an A-frame break
with a very small take-off spot so the competition was a bit high among 20
or so surfers. At one point there was a little fight over the wave but we
stayed by the shoulder and watched and surfed the inside section for a
while. This is kind of a dangerous spot and if you are not watching your
course or do not stall early a pile of rock is awaiting at the end. As we
entered the beach, we saw one guy just barely missed the rocks as he came
I caught a nice one with the power of the wave so much that I was going so
fast! The break was further out so there was a plenty of distance to surf.
By 1000 the sets were starting to fizzle out and started to only break
insides. We drove up to Scotts Creek then seeing no good breaking went to
Waddell Creek, as the wind started to pick up we were doing some shoulder
high rough stuff there for an hour.
All in all, this was a perfect day for surfing, and should my skill be
better, I'd have had a lot of good surfing.
That's all for my surfing in August. Be back from our trip in Japan on the
5th. Everyone have a good surfing. I will check back once I get to Osaka. If
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