I had a great Stoke 7 this late afternoon in LM. While the surf started to get junkier and toward 1930, earlier it was so great and everyone was having a lot of fun. It was one of the best days in a couple of months I can recall. At the spot I was in, the bigger sets were shoulder-head size, but were gentle.
Oh, and I managed to catch a good rip current going out here. It is so great, I felt like a champion paddler. It actually fell like being on one of those moving walk at airports. You are walking (paddling) but feels like going so much faster.
I think I finally understood why those fishing people tend to be standing right at the rip currents today. I saw one fishing person actually walking along the beach as his string was being pulled on side currents, then he stopped. The spot he stopped was where the rip was going out. Because of the way that the string is dragged with the beach current they tend to automatically find a spot where the water is going out. So next time you go out, find a standing (but not moving) fishing person, and that marks the outer rip spot!
Back to surfing, it was so much fun so I give a Stoke 7 today.
Again the spot that I go to usually gets head to double-over breaks on outer section then there is an inside section when you catch the outer one (if it does not break on the outside, it will not form the second break BTW, then you have a lot of fun riding great lefts and rights since it is a peak. These are often big and scarily and more powerful waves and if they eat you, you'd be tubing under for some time, so they are definitely for everyone but if you know how to deal with them they are so much fun!
Today, I was able to practice a lot of bottom turns, but still I stall a bit so I cannot climb back up. But I had several "longer" rides that really were so stoking! I heard many other people screaming out with joy every time a big one came in and people catching, and so did I. This kind of day makes me feel something very wonderful about the gift of the nature. Outside of wearing man-made suite and riding chemical board, everything is pretty much my biological composition against the nature, and I get to fully engulfed and participate in it. There are only a few other sport you can be this close to being with the nature, and I appreciate it so much.
By 1930 the wind picked up and it was a good time to finish up the fun session.
Also I saw many girl surfers, I think they were all getting ready for the competition this weekend!