Wednesday, September 10, 2003

WED Surf Wrap Up: Stoke 7

My StokeCAST has been quite OK lately, the NW swells are still continuing and we are getting some good shoulder to OVH level sets. Days like this makes surfing at LM a lot of fun. Today, Ken and I stayed mostly in the center and the S sections as N sections were seemingly closing out and also the Shower got the set height allright but not breaking until further in. Days like this makes S end to break a bit better.
There were some phenomenally good rides today, and we both enjoyed it a lot. It was on the edge of closing out so it was a good practice to get a hold of the board control quicker, and that means that there is a crucial moment of strong paddling, and you are on.
The sky was sunny and we surfed just until the sun has gone down.
As for my progress,
- I feel that I am finally starting to get a hang of duck diving now. Success rate has gone up from 1 every 3 or 4 to about every other tries.  Even I screw up, I get out to the other side then fall off the board. The real key to this is not the sinking of the front (which most people can do), but how to push down the tail of the board. There are two hurdles surrounding this, first one is the timing on when to push in. The next is to keep the good balance on the board while pushing the tail of the board down hard with the toe (and not the knee).
- I am getting a bit better at taking off on faster closing waves, and get up on the board sooner. Key here seems to be that you need to paddle rather hard and continue to paddle a bit longer even after you think you have taken off. Then get up on the board really quickly, and low. Now, good people are already in steering, but I can still go straight down at this point, but can execute small bottom turn to keep going a bit longer. Here the INDO has been helping quite a bit as I can feel what board wants to do better than before, so I can react to it.

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