The magical North end returns to LM and it was so much fun being there this
evening. We got lots of gentle chest to shoulder high lefts (my favorite
level) with reforms to top off. Once you get in the pocket you can cost
along with a bit of cutting back, no much effort is needed once you take
off. My buddy Nick came out after his shift ended at 6:00.
Compared to Montara on Sunday with 1.0 to 1.5 head dumper after hard paddle
out, it was a very nice treat and remember about actually taking off on
waves and standing up.
Still though, I don't stand up quick enough to get a hold of the control of
the board. A good portion of the ride is wasted belly boarding on the
surface. I promise I will work on getting up on the board sooner. But to my
credit I can take off when I think I can, so I am onto the next step!
Ducking still sucks with about a success rate of only 10% to 15% at the
best, the 7'6 is still too floaty for it, but I am going to keep practicing
on it until I get it. If I get this right, I can probably start sinking my
8'6 with some success that will be awesome and pretty interesting! Sinking
of the tail part of the board is really really difficult.