I had another fun session this morning.
The north end of the beach were getting up to shoulder high with various
degrees of steepness. It was a bit mushy on many sets but occasionally a
more stronger and higher ones to come that broke perfectly well.
A new discovery almost every time I go out!
I found out what was my latest problem was. I was getting too greedy to get
to bigger waves and forgetting about the importance of catching waves. In
fact, one of the competitors at the classic advised me the importance of
catching more waves than scoring a big wave. So going back to the familiar
and a bit gentle spot was a big treat and very rewarding. I caught more
waves in all the waves I caught in the last month. This is an important
balance to strike as if you don't challenge yourself, there is no progress
and if you challenge too much there are more failures preventing progress.
Also this morning is the first time I felt that I am starting to feel more
intimate with the 7'6 board I am using. I really feel that I can command the
board to do what I want to do a bit better and also more importantly I can
sense the board providing feeding back as to the condition of the wave
running through my lower body giving little hints where to go next. After
realizing the feel, I have also realized that I was just letting the board
carry me and not participating in the full potential of the ride. This is
very encouraging! I think that the practice on the Indo Board has been very
I hope you will make good progress this week!