I am just passing on what Steve Pezman told us about Surfing in the
tour/speech I attended at the Surf Culture exhibit at the San Jose Museum
This is not exactly verbatim, but you will get the idea.
Surfing is like a form of dancing.
A surfer is a dancer and the wave is the stage.
Each dancer has a dancing style of own and you can pretty much tell the
personality of the person by looking at how the person dances in just a few
second. Aggressive people dance aggressively and mellow people dance
Everytime I go see surfers, I always thought that surfers were doing their
performance before the beach audience, and I am happy that someone else
thought the same thing!