This evening, I went to Motara State and tried to surf. There were a lot of people out there but not very many surfers at all. 4 max, and yes that means I surfed twice in one day. There were hip to chest high swells but of mushy fizzler quality that long rides were not possible. But the nice sunny summer weather helped me to enjoy waiting for waves. Even under this kind of low conditions, the shorebreaks were still present making going in and out still a bit difficult. The actual stoke factor was 4 for the waves.
This crazy summer type weather is going to stay through Saturday. Current predictions seems that there is a slight increase in the NW swells therefore I am hopeful that tomorrow AM at LM may be OK like this morning. So given the weather I will give the stoke factor of 6 for tomorrow.
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