Thursday, June 05, 2003

So Cal Surfing

I am now in LA staying at a hotel on Sunset near the Tower Records, big billboards etc., and finally got an access to a computer at a hotel.

Tuesday, I went to San Onofre. Many people told me that this is a great spot for beginner and intermediate surfers. I also exchanged a bit of information with Pacific Waverider webmaster and he told me to skip Salt Creek and go head straight down to The Trestles (which is actually very difficult to find), but it looks like you can walk from San Onofre surfing beach. Anyhow, San Onofre was not very crowded at all. So it was really nice. We were not fortunate to get good set of waves during this trip, but we were still getting occasional shoulder level peelers coming in at this location while most other beaches near Laguna were all flat or breaking too close to the shore. I was told to bring a long board, but I brought the 7'6, and I am still glad I did. This board is really versatile, and rides like a long board, but takes off like a short board. Only problem with it is that it is still nearly impossible to duck with it. Just too much volume.

As for surfing, the waves are gentle and easy to get out, but it was still on a bit peaky side to enjoy longer rides. The bottom is mix of round fist size rocks and sand (just like in Erendira) and that must support the reefy condition that support gentle breaks. I certainly had better days both at the JT and LM, not to mention all locations in SC. Of course, this is late spring surfing and no south stuff is coming in this week. The entire So Cal coast has been socked in the thick marine layer this week so it was gray. I think we have brought with us the touch of Nor Cal to So Cal. As soon as we leave, they should get the sunny weather back. One spooky aspect of this location is that there is a nuclear power plant. The water was really warm and it is true that you do not need a booty or gloves (both of which I wore). When the water inside the wet suit start to heat up, then I know it is really warm.

Wednesday, we were on the way to LA and checked out Huntington beach. I was able to find a spot called Santa Ana Rivermouth, and it was a part of the the state beach so we went in. Right at the rivermouth, there were some hard break going on where more expert surfers are doing very fast short board actions. Most people were heading to the spot south of the mouth, and it was a perfect paddle out condition where it was totally flat then occasional head high sets come in. But I underestimated this spot here, and the breaks were really hard into shallow sand bars that form quite further out. Even at this kind of condition, the breaks were similar to the hard shorebreaks we get in Montara, that take off was nearly impossible for my level and I ended up knocking off one of my fins. Fortunately there are dozen surf shops in Huntington that there is no problem getting a replacement. Thanks to the FCS technology, and also Protek fins did protect. No damages or injuries other than minor bumps on my leg.

We have a pool here at the place where I we are staying and so I swam for 30 minutes or so continuously.

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