Stoke factor has dwindled from 5 or 6 to 3 as the waves wind down today, and
fog is rolling into our cost. There is no immediate storm swells visiting us
in the immediate days. This must be the "summer" time that other expert
surfers have been talking all about, which I did not believe that existed.
Of course, this means that I am starting to get spoiled. I know I have gone
out every possible chance last year, so all excited. And now I am starting
to become selective about the places and conditions!
This morning, we had our first ever, HMBSB user surfing day with one user
joining us at LM. LM was actually quite fun and the condition was Cowells
like in all aspects. Hundreds of novice surfers competing on gentle hip-size
waves. Though toward the Crespi end there were some good shoulder-high sets
coming in. By 10:30 a.m., though so many people showed up that it became
almost not possible to take off without planning to hit other surfers
standing near the beach. I paddled away from the area where the people were
standing in the shallows, then next time I turn around, there were people
standing in the shallows right where I wanted to go to!
Of course, the situation was really mellow today with nobody yelling at
dropping in. In fact, in this kind of Cowells like condition, we just all
take off at once for fun. So all in all it was a happy day of surfing. It is
quite a contrast to earlier in the week where only a select few will brave
out the chops to get to 1.5 x head wave faces!