Saturday, April 30, 2005

Session 5083: A Perfect Day

Well, another awesome S. swell day with hardly no wind at a beach. Ren, Heidi, Amanda, Spyke and Laura joined me in going to a non Linda Mar location. Not only the waves were awesome, we owned the entire beach to 6 of us! We allowed only one temporary Stokemasters member in the lineup and that was it.

From atop the hill going down to the beach, as we made the first turn the entire vista of the beach opened up, and it looked like a picture out of a page in a surfing magazine, and I rolled up the window threw a bit Shaka sign to Laura who was following behind me and she did that too, so we knew we were in for a fun.

As we got out of our cars, Ren was a bit freaked out saying it was too big, but I said, yes it is big but it holds the shape and don't worry about it. We all got into our gears and I paddled out right away with a short board. All the girls were using the long board and that would have been an appropriate choice, as the waves were sizing up well overhead on bigger sets, but again, they were holding up the shape so if you get into it, it would give you nice fast rides. Wish I did bring the Takayama DT4, that would have been a total long board ripping situation.

Everyone did catch some awesome waves, and Ren and Heidi set up a nice base at the beach so we could all rest in the mid session.

After a quick snack, courtesy of Ren and Heidi, we paddled out again, and I thought that a big ship was sinking or something with its bow totally pointing up, but quickly we have all recognized that it was a Gray Whale again jumping up the snout from the water. It jumped 3 or 4 times and everyone at the beach was cheering too, and we were paddling further out to see it up closer.

Nice waves at our own beach and a show of Gray Whale(s). We could not have asked better surfing experience.

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