As usual, I get a call from my local surf buddy this morning when and where to surf, while I talk on the phone to him, my wife is listening on to the conversation, and it really sounds more like NOAA scientists talking to another. "Ah, yes, the swell is WNW 5 ft 17 seconds, and the wind is from SE, that should cause an offshore flow at so and so location. Humm? that that spot should catch? Oh, wait a minute, let's check the tide, a negative tide at xyz hours so if we get out now, we can catch the incoming tide by the time we get going." But, having done this numerous times, we have gotten quite a knack on picking the right place and the last several sessions have basically been "right on." And even in our area, we can carefully choose where would be more optimum than the other.
So we ended up with another awesome day (according to my buddy). I did not do that as well today as the waves were more on the closed side due to the low-low tide, but still I had some of my moments today.
Some of the things I have just starting to look into are the importance of understating steering with the tail and how that becomes more important in short board type rides. I have been writing a lot about take offs, and now take offs are becoming more confident, the next thing is to make sure that I set more "quality" lines or whatever you'd want to call it.
I also talked in my last session about the take off part becoming more automatic now and this morning I caught one wave that was on a relatively faster closing side (for my ability, of course), but I popped up and got in the line so smoothly that it was really amazing!
When I write these things, some may think that I am really having hard time surfing, but it is actually fun to analyze what is going on, some of the analysis can even turns out be incorrect, but that's part of the fun of discovering. I always try to go into the water with an attitude to let everything go from the "real world" for the next 90 minutes and try to become a simple "surf animal."
P.S.: The real difficulty is to write about each damn session. That is hitting the limit of my creativity!
hey dude, i bodyboarded at the jetty today. caught a couple waves, other than that it was flat. there were some sets but they closed out, and I'm such a wuss to catch a wave if it'll close out on me. anyway, later
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