Thursday, April 07, 2005

Session 5066

The larger WNW swells have started to fill in over night, and by the time I got up it was going at 10 ft 14 seconds range. Plus there was a prevailing NW wind that basically would make it no go for any point north of HMB, including the OB. So this morning we have opted for the Jetty, and I must say that there was still enough wave to be had, but it was not that well organized to make it surfable much. Nonetheless, I did go and did have the usual paddle outs and duck diving practice in a washing basin.

I had a 7'0 under my belly, and I must say that I was initially a bit panicked as my buddy was so fast paddling out with even a shorter board than I got. But I have gained the calm quickly after 10 minutes or so and basically said to myself, "Relax and paddle with even strokes, I will get there." And so I started to make the progress to the outside, and practiced more take offs. After that I was paddling all over the places to find the best wave.
Unfortunately, most of the waves were doubling up and then did not form into ridable waves. It was a bit frustrating to try to catch and just did build up, so even when I get up, they just fizzled out right under my feet and stalled out.
As the time went by the wind started to pick up and that was basically it and also time to get to work.

Still, some good people were catching good waves from further by the break water, so that means more practice for me.

No comments: