Last two sessions, I have been noticing the water being noticeably colder, and I have just rechecked the water temp and it is now 53 F now, so with this much wind blowing, it looks like the spring upwelling season has arrived upon us.
Compared to yesterday, the situation at the Jetty was much calmer today and it was quite a contrast. It was a nice change from Friday and Saturday, and I felt I need a bit of relaxed small wave surfing so I went in, not that if the waves are any different I would not. Yesterday, the paddling and getting out was so hard that the session did not last too long and at the same time, when I got home, and had a lunch, I laid down for a bit and the slept on for good three hours. I like that kind of nap when my body is demanding that I rest and sleep for a while. It is being like at the Baja surf camp where we basically surfed our brains out in the morning, take a nap then we surfed our brains out in the afternoon, and did that for good 5 days straight.
Like I have been writing, I really like small wave riding. But also this morning was continued to be a good time to practice faster take offs. In the department of faster take offs, here is some additional notes, and that has to do with a lot of fear in me that I had to overcome.
The one of the breakthroughs I have started to realize is that now, if I take off on a situation where I can barely make it, and often I don't, I now have a better idea of what really happens and also how to stay in control even when I have to wipe out. It has a lot to do with actually getting the board moving in the water still in the direction I want until the last moment, or I have enough guts and strength to hang on to the board. Also if I am up on the board, I would try to stay in control as long as possible even if I have to wipe out, know approximately where the board will end up. During the take off, I am much more careful to look around to make sure that there is nobody else around to establish a clear line of take off, and if not, I would stop right away. So I guess there is kind of an art to gracefully wiping out to avoid boards hitting me etc.
This morning was really fun. Each successful ride is definitely getting longer for me even on a smaller day like this. My wife was watching, and she says I am still far from my local buddies, but I tell her that will not be too distant in the future.