It was great surfing this morning. Swells are not too big and set were coming in at about shoulder to head level with gentle rolling breaks, perfect for taking time and taking off into "mushy" walls then continuing to build up to steeper wall. There were many and many waves like those and when I take off there was plenty of time to turn and set the rail to the wall. I had some of the most exquisite time on practicing cut back turns, if I can ask for it, wish that the waves would held up a bit longer. I cannot expect that from happening much here, but if I headed down South this morning, I would imagine that would have been even possible!
The sun was out, the wind was mild, and nobody found out this spot, so I had the entire 6-mile stretch of the beach all to myself! But even then the current here is still strong and the best break do pop up at all different spots so it was hard paddling left and right and walking back to the rip, which was really fun to do when it is not threatening like today. I have been here before with other local buddies when the current was so strong that in no time, I was 500 yards out even before I noticed. Though this morning, the rip current was already kicking up some bottom water, so it got fairly cold there.
A day like this is very meditative as there is nothing around for me to get distracted. I just paddle, paddle and paddle and surf, and think about nothing else, focus on just a minimum thing that I need to be aware of and let the body feel the surrounding, which I am actually striving to do every session in more crowded or poorer condition situations, essentially try to live as close of a life style possible to the seal that was checking me out from time to time.
The purest moment for me is actually not when I am on the board, but when I am paddling out in this kind of a mode where I just keep paddling and not thinking about anything else. I let myself on going beyond the breaks and towards the horizon, while trying to feel every aspect of the surrounding water. When this happens, I feel in tune with the rhythm of the incoming waves and somehow, getting out feels much easier.
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