Friday, April 08, 2005

Session 5067: The Storm Surf

This morning, I had a strange dream about a local surfing club having an World Expo surfing exhibit, and as usual, I was running around to help coordinate the club to do the exhibit. Actually the most part of the dream that I remember is the part that the club was selling some sort of adhesive thing that make the wet suit warmer or something, and it ran out, so I had to go to some underground room under the Expo ground where there are a bunch of exhibitors eating lunches in a big room. At any rate, when I was done with the dream and back to the real world it was already 6:30, and I was feeling I am running late for a DP. Frantically putting things together to go, and left home.

It was raining a decent amount, but I was really determined to go this morning for no real good reasons. By the time I got to the beach, it was moderately blowing offshore. The parking lot was all wet, windy and there were only 4 or 5 cars. There were occasional surfer mobiles stopping by, and not getting out of the car, most of them turned around. Well, for me, this morning, there are no other options than surf here for the next hour then head to the office for meetings. So I put things together and went in.

As I went in, I was a bit relieved to know that there were two other surfers far in the South end, and so I paddled out there. During this time, the SW wind was building up and the sky getting darker with more rain. I was hoping that both wind and the rain will hold down but that was a wishful thinking. Both had built up to the point that I was basically trying to catch waves in a huge storm like weather with rain beating so hard that affected the view. The wind is now so strong that it is literally not letting the waves from breaking, so I had several false take offs. Then when it breaks, due to the low tide included, it was throwing tubes all over the place. Not very easy.

I was paddling closer and closer to the shore and to the furthest SW corner there was left of the beach, finally I caught a nice right, but that was but all rides I have gotten this morning. I tried a few more waves but nothing panned out for me and left.

After returning to the parking, the wind was even stronger and even though I left the board flat on the pavement, the wind blew it over. Now strapping my boards back on the car is out of question. Changing the cloth outside of the room was also out of the question; luckily the restroom was open so I went in there to do the change.

I have not surfed in as stormy of the situation as this. The waves got more decent as the tide started to come in. By now, there were some good waves going in the middle section of the beach and saw some hot surfers taking advantage of it. But my time has run out.

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