Wednesday, July 28, 2004

Session 4.137: Stoke 7 This DP

I was driving up The 1 and got a call from Arthur that it was small at the Linda Mar beach so we decided to change a plan and surf a bit further south. We were the first to arrive there, shortly two others have arrived too. From the cliff, the waves looked small but once we got in the water, it was not too bad.  We were greeted by two sea lions one was on the beach. Arthur thought that it was dead, but I told him, it is just resting. And as soon as we got in the water, it woke up raised the head up staring at us going into the water.

We had chest high sets coming in but it was also fairly easy to get out. I had lots of decent and confident rides but had to keep adjusting the location as the breaks were happening at all different locations at different times.

We had both lefts and rights but I continue to prefer the lefts even though I am regular footed, but sometimes I am starting to wonder if I would ever catch any rights. Perhaps I need to go back to Santa Cruz and catch many rights.

I kind of like the fog covering the sky since I don't get bombards with a lot of sun's rays and so don't need to put on so much cream on my face etc. This is especially nice in the afternoon surfing as when the sun is out and directly in the west, it is very difficult to see the swells.

Looks like we are going to repeat this again tomorrow morning.

Towards the end of the session, the waves were starting to close out. I took off on just about every one of those too, but only to find myself surrounded by the soup of white water bouncing up and down violently while I basically stood still on the board. 

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